While walking along the VDLP and visiting some of the big cities en route, it is hard not to forget some of the differences we have noticed in Spain. Many are particular to Spain and its people, some maybe just European which is quite a novelty for Australians visitng. In no particular order.........
1. The Bars. In villages,outdoor chairs, tables and brollies usually advertise the local brew, Estrella, Mahou, Cruzcampo to name a few. Occasionally the brollies advertise coke or fanta.
2. The Buses. Even if you are not using them, it is impossible not to notice their transit through small towns and villages and a lifeline for many........is it ALSA, MONBUS, VESQUES or PESA?
3.Allotments. Most country people grow their own fruit and vegetables, and we see them all at work as we walk by, especially memorable in Banos de Montemayor, where Chris and I watched mesmerised while one elderly chap channelled water through his vege patch via a series of little dams.
4. Long Life Milk. There are plenty of cows to produce milk but we didn´t see fresh milk sold in supermercados.
5.Oficina de Turismo. The pilgrim´s best friend in any town! How many times each day did they produce a mapa and circle the must see monuments. And how often did they ask ¨and what country are you from¨?
6.The supermercados.....well stocked. DIA, FROIZ, EROSKI and CARREFOUR. Very well stocked and service generally good, but elderly ladies slowed up the deli counter as they took their time to decide on quesos and carnes.
7. Wind power.
8.REPSOL and other fuel suppliers. These sometimes held the albergue key if nearby, always gave directions and in isolated spots near motorway crossovers, provided a much needed coffee.
9. TVs Blaring in every bar. Some bars had three sets, so no excuse to miss the soccer.
10.Big Bins in streets....shared by householders.
11.Cafe con leche grande for thirsty pilgrims!
12.Lots of sockets for recharging. In one albergue, an ingenious pilgrim pulled out the plug to the hand drier and left his phone on the drier all night.
13.Free wifi in many cafes and restaurants and in some casas. In future, pilgrims will use this facility as more guide books go online.
14. Women wearing the checked pinafore.....to run their casas, to clean, to cook and to garden.
15.Vines in many gardens.
16.Ourense took first prize for the best Estacion de Autobuses.
17.Big Cities. Paseos and ladies who lunch looking ever so smart, ditto babies in smart prams.
18.Isolated communities and basic farming methods. Cows and goats hered into ground floor of houses overnight, right in the middle of a village.
19. Favourite pilgrim picnic. At Oseira Monastery. Sitting outside the albegue after evening vespers with the monks. Sun still shining at 9pm as we enjoy fresh pan with queso and membrillo (quince paste).
20. Favourite conversation with a local tending his fruit and vegetables. It was a conversation about his walnut and quince trees and he was hoping for a good crop this year.
21.Favourite SOUNDS. Cow and goat bells. Ave Maria at dusk at Oseira Monastery church bells. Chanting at vespers Oseira. Seagulls at Finisterre. Very gentle chanting at Santiago as botofumeiro is starting to swing.
Frogs croaking loudly. Water falling.
22. Favourite SIGHTS. Roman Aqueduct at dawn...Merida. Salamanca Plaza Mayor. Ventas near Campobecerras (high on ridge), abundant wildflowers especially lavender and poppies, early morning light, sunrise at Finisterre, sunset at Muxia at the little church on the granite headland.
23. Favourite SMELLS. Wild mint, thyme and lavender, cistus bushes, food smells especially pan y pescada, cut hay, the sea, the sardine grill at Finisterre.
Saturday, July 3, 2010
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