Friday, May 28, 2010
Grimaldo
Stayed in this little gem of a village last night. I took the bus from caceres and chris got off 10 ks back, so he could walk the last little bit ( I joined him late pm for a little if the walk in reverse as the old roman road was just a mass of flowers and holm oaks and I was keen to see it).
I was the first to arrive at the albergue, collecting the key from the delightful Adela at bar grimaldo next door! In fact Adela IS the albergue too so gave me the guided tour of this tiny little place for pilgrims, but even equipped with washing and coffee machines!
She then made me a coffee from the bar, while I waited at outside tables in the sun. 3 germans appeared and a little while later chris walked in.
Adela fed us her delicious food and indeed her bar was really all the village had (there was a restaurant opp) but our allegiance was with our gem Adela, who also looked after village pensioners who popped in for their tipple!
Chris had already met one if the Germans who had stayed with him in alcuescar with the monks and the homeless men.
Our pm walk down the village track to the communal allotments was indeed a very pretty spot and one of my elderly mates from the bar was down at his walled allotment bt the stream with his 2 cats and a dog! We wanted to have a look in his garden but couldn't make ourselves understood as he was very deaf.
then it was back to the bar. Adele was busy again cooking dinner and delivering gas to the albergue so we had hot water for the morning. She was there again at 7 this morning to give us breakfast before we left and her day doesn't finish until 1030, so she is very committed to her pilgrims and her village.
We won't now go to galisteo, which is well known for it's equivalent of Oaks day for the ladies (cows run free within the town walls fir a day, so it's not men running with bulls, but ladies running with the cows)!!!
Today we are un plasencia for a brief visit of yet another old walled city.
Tomorrow we are back on the camino.
I will blog again in Salamanca.
I was the first to arrive at the albergue, collecting the key from the delightful Adela at bar grimaldo next door! In fact Adela IS the albergue too so gave me the guided tour of this tiny little place for pilgrims, but even equipped with washing and coffee machines!
She then made me a coffee from the bar, while I waited at outside tables in the sun. 3 germans appeared and a little while later chris walked in.
Adela fed us her delicious food and indeed her bar was really all the village had (there was a restaurant opp) but our allegiance was with our gem Adela, who also looked after village pensioners who popped in for their tipple!
Chris had already met one if the Germans who had stayed with him in alcuescar with the monks and the homeless men.
Our pm walk down the village track to the communal allotments was indeed a very pretty spot and one of my elderly mates from the bar was down at his walled allotment bt the stream with his 2 cats and a dog! We wanted to have a look in his garden but couldn't make ourselves understood as he was very deaf.
then it was back to the bar. Adele was busy again cooking dinner and delivering gas to the albergue so we had hot water for the morning. She was there again at 7 this morning to give us breakfast before we left and her day doesn't finish until 1030, so she is very committed to her pilgrims and her village.
We won't now go to galisteo, which is well known for it's equivalent of Oaks day for the ladies (cows run free within the town walls fir a day, so it's not men running with bulls, but ladies running with the cows)!!!
Today we are un plasencia for a brief visit of yet another old walled city.
Tomorrow we are back on the camino.
I will blog again in Salamanca.
Caceres
CHEESE. TORTE DE CACERES IS THE LOCALLY MADE Delicacy FROM SHEEP MILK. CHRIS ENJOYED IT WITH A PORK DISH. THE CHEESE ALMOST RUNS OFF THE PLATE.
COBBLESTONES. ALL THE STREETS IN CACERES ARE NARROW AND COBBLESTONED, IN AND AROUND THE SOLARES (MANSION HOUSES) AND THEIR TOWERS!
cisterns WERE BUILT BY THE ROMANS IN VAULTED CELLARS under EACH MANSION HOUSE to provide their own water supply. Inner courtyards were open and collected rain water, which drained into the cisterns. Amazing to see cisterns still working today.
cockerel legend. A moblemans daughter used a cistern to secretly meet her soldier lover. When discovered, she turned into a cockerel to avoid punishment and the cock still crows each dawn in caceres!
cathefral chimes were most evocative early morning.
casa de la ciguenes(stork) was one of few mansions still standing with original tower!
catholic isobel ordered destruction of the many towers unless you were her mate.
christian/Muslim ding dongs went on for many years.
casco viejo (old town) was beautiful.
charming (not) a pilgrim with his own version of a charm bracelet ....a Santiago cross tatt on his ankle!
COBBLESTONES. ALL THE STREETS IN CACERES ARE NARROW AND COBBLESTONED, IN AND AROUND THE SOLARES (MANSION HOUSES) AND THEIR TOWERS!
cisterns WERE BUILT BY THE ROMANS IN VAULTED CELLARS under EACH MANSION HOUSE to provide their own water supply. Inner courtyards were open and collected rain water, which drained into the cisterns. Amazing to see cisterns still working today.
cockerel legend. A moblemans daughter used a cistern to secretly meet her soldier lover. When discovered, she turned into a cockerel to avoid punishment and the cock still crows each dawn in caceres!
cathefral chimes were most evocative early morning.
casa de la ciguenes(stork) was one of few mansions still standing with original tower!
catholic isobel ordered destruction of the many towers unless you were her mate.
christian/Muslim ding dongs went on for many years.
casco viejo (old town) was beautiful.
charming (not) a pilgrim with his own version of a charm bracelet ....a Santiago cross tatt on his ankle!
Sunday, May 23, 2010
UN DIA EN LA VIDA DE PUEBLO PEQUENO. 23 Mayo 2010.
A day in the life of a little village! Rest days provide different opportunities to observe life in these wonderful little Spanish villages.
Today began at 530 with fellow pilgrims stirring for a quick breakfast before setting out on their next stage before the Extramadura heat becomes too oppressive (to arrive at a destination between 12 and 2 is perfect because the late afternoon is best indoors)!
Cocks are crowing and dogs are barking in the distance, perhaps at pilgrims already on the road. It is still cool and fresh but all is otherwise quiet in this tiny village on a Sunday morning.
Up the road, the bar Kiosko is open for a few early birds at 7am (mainly pilgrims today, needing their tostada and cafe con leche before setting out. I join them at one of the outdoor tables with a view of the Iglesia, so I can watch mummy stork feeding her young on one of the towers, and sketching an outline of the bell tower and facade.
The village is built on the side of a hill with a long Y shaped street running downhill. The Auntamiento (Town Hall) and the top bar (Kiosko) are situated at the top of theY, with the lower bar Sergio (abajo) in the bottom corner. Sergio seems to operate the fuente in front, with water flowing when the bar is open in this tiny little square. The Ayuntamiento has the obligatory 3 flags flying a little shabbily from the top balcony, and is obviously the place to communicate with the local community. The glassed in notice board has details of a regular foot clinic (for pilgrims or pensioners I wonder), there are lots of classes for internet and web use and a free bus tour to see the Festival of Patios which we were lucky enough to see 2 weeks ago.
A well kept playground in front of the church suggests young children live here and the primary school opposite looks to be a lively place with bright murals at the front entrance. A little farmacia tends to the needs of the local and pilgrim community.
The tabac/tienda is a tiny little shop next door but well supplied with food and household items. Opening times vary, as I discovered yesterday, but it was explained to me later that the couple running the shop have a tiny baby so in true Spanish tradition, they open when possible! I found it open 2 hours after the published time and it was an hilarious experience. In such a tiny space, the shopkeeper (Dad) was trying to re-stock his shelves, while 5 noisy senoras crowded inside, cooing over the baby´s pram. Unfortunately this was all too much for the little babe who burst into tears. In the next moment, Mum leaves a till mid-transaction and disappears out the back with a bottle of water and unhappy babe. Meanwhile Dad is trying to complete transactions, side stepping the melee of senoras gabbling while I just watch on amused at the whole scene. Ten minutes later,I found my milk, bread and yoghurt and said farewells to the elderly lady carrying large bottles of water home!
The bar/cafe is another fun spot to people watch. Usually it is elderly men propping up the bar during the day. They obviously come for company and to catch up with the daily paper, and are well known to the proprieter of said cafe. ´´Seconds´´of their espresso, little alcoholic tipple and tiny tapas arrive without words being spoken!
Next moment 3 hungry camino cyclists arrive hungry and thirsty, so the barmen disappears out the back to prepare food, but only after drawing a beer for each of them.
Then the vans start to arrive in the village. I am warned this will happen so await the toot toot. I join a couple of senoras as we line up for fruit and vegetables fresh from Merida.
Next the Pan Van (bread) arrives but I am already supplied as others choose their daily loaf.
The Roman Baths are an obvious meeting place in the village, and a popular place for pilgrims staying at the albergue. We enjoyed bathing in pools of varying temperatures which was very welcome after a day on the Camino.
The casas are beautifully cool inside and if ´my´ present residence is any indication, the huge vaulted ceilings and stone and pebble mosaic floors seem to make the difference. There is such pride in keeping homes clean as I observe the neighbours sweeping and mopping their front steps each morning before opening the front door for a little through draught and to greet neighbours walking past.
In the cool of the evenings, there are kds on bikes and older adolescents on motorbikes using the downhill run for a little excitement!
Life goes on as pilgrims arrive and leave this charming little place and I head off to Misa (Mass) with about 20 locals. Quite a wonderful experience with a lively young priest playing Spanish guitar and lots of singing from about 6 children/young adults, who are very much assisting with the service. One lad is clearly disabled, and doesn´t really get the hang of lighting and extinguishing candles (his part in the service), but the priest is so patient with him. A mix of older women and a handful of younger people, but my observation is of a very caring community.
As I leave the church and cross over to the little square and Bar Kiosko, I notice the men stray while the women pray! Maybe this is part of their culture, as I asked a group of Spanish male walkers (mid 50´s) one night around a communal dining table why I didn´t see older Spanish women on the camino and their response was that wives cared for them over the years and looked after the house and their children, so it was not their role to walk the camino as well (so I thought did they see it as their duty in life?).
I was then amused later that same evening, one of the chaps got up suddenly, did all the dishes and swept the floor, and promptly told the others "don´t tell my wife"!
Today began at 530 with fellow pilgrims stirring for a quick breakfast before setting out on their next stage before the Extramadura heat becomes too oppressive (to arrive at a destination between 12 and 2 is perfect because the late afternoon is best indoors)!
Cocks are crowing and dogs are barking in the distance, perhaps at pilgrims already on the road. It is still cool and fresh but all is otherwise quiet in this tiny village on a Sunday morning.
Up the road, the bar Kiosko is open for a few early birds at 7am (mainly pilgrims today, needing their tostada and cafe con leche before setting out. I join them at one of the outdoor tables with a view of the Iglesia, so I can watch mummy stork feeding her young on one of the towers, and sketching an outline of the bell tower and facade.
The village is built on the side of a hill with a long Y shaped street running downhill. The Auntamiento (Town Hall) and the top bar (Kiosko) are situated at the top of theY, with the lower bar Sergio (abajo) in the bottom corner. Sergio seems to operate the fuente in front, with water flowing when the bar is open in this tiny little square. The Ayuntamiento has the obligatory 3 flags flying a little shabbily from the top balcony, and is obviously the place to communicate with the local community. The glassed in notice board has details of a regular foot clinic (for pilgrims or pensioners I wonder), there are lots of classes for internet and web use and a free bus tour to see the Festival of Patios which we were lucky enough to see 2 weeks ago.
A well kept playground in front of the church suggests young children live here and the primary school opposite looks to be a lively place with bright murals at the front entrance. A little farmacia tends to the needs of the local and pilgrim community.
The tabac/tienda is a tiny little shop next door but well supplied with food and household items. Opening times vary, as I discovered yesterday, but it was explained to me later that the couple running the shop have a tiny baby so in true Spanish tradition, they open when possible! I found it open 2 hours after the published time and it was an hilarious experience. In such a tiny space, the shopkeeper (Dad) was trying to re-stock his shelves, while 5 noisy senoras crowded inside, cooing over the baby´s pram. Unfortunately this was all too much for the little babe who burst into tears. In the next moment, Mum leaves a till mid-transaction and disappears out the back with a bottle of water and unhappy babe. Meanwhile Dad is trying to complete transactions, side stepping the melee of senoras gabbling while I just watch on amused at the whole scene. Ten minutes later,I found my milk, bread and yoghurt and said farewells to the elderly lady carrying large bottles of water home!
The bar/cafe is another fun spot to people watch. Usually it is elderly men propping up the bar during the day. They obviously come for company and to catch up with the daily paper, and are well known to the proprieter of said cafe. ´´Seconds´´of their espresso, little alcoholic tipple and tiny tapas arrive without words being spoken!
Next moment 3 hungry camino cyclists arrive hungry and thirsty, so the barmen disappears out the back to prepare food, but only after drawing a beer for each of them.
Then the vans start to arrive in the village. I am warned this will happen so await the toot toot. I join a couple of senoras as we line up for fruit and vegetables fresh from Merida.
Next the Pan Van (bread) arrives but I am already supplied as others choose their daily loaf.
The Roman Baths are an obvious meeting place in the village, and a popular place for pilgrims staying at the albergue. We enjoyed bathing in pools of varying temperatures which was very welcome after a day on the Camino.
The casas are beautifully cool inside and if ´my´ present residence is any indication, the huge vaulted ceilings and stone and pebble mosaic floors seem to make the difference. There is such pride in keeping homes clean as I observe the neighbours sweeping and mopping their front steps each morning before opening the front door for a little through draught and to greet neighbours walking past.
In the cool of the evenings, there are kds on bikes and older adolescents on motorbikes using the downhill run for a little excitement!
Life goes on as pilgrims arrive and leave this charming little place and I head off to Misa (Mass) with about 20 locals. Quite a wonderful experience with a lively young priest playing Spanish guitar and lots of singing from about 6 children/young adults, who are very much assisting with the service. One lad is clearly disabled, and doesn´t really get the hang of lighting and extinguishing candles (his part in the service), but the priest is so patient with him. A mix of older women and a handful of younger people, but my observation is of a very caring community.
As I leave the church and cross over to the little square and Bar Kiosko, I notice the men stray while the women pray! Maybe this is part of their culture, as I asked a group of Spanish male walkers (mid 50´s) one night around a communal dining table why I didn´t see older Spanish women on the camino and their response was that wives cared for them over the years and looked after the house and their children, so it was not their role to walk the camino as well (so I thought did they see it as their duty in life?).
I was then amused later that same evening, one of the chaps got up suddenly, did all the dishes and swept the floor, and promptly told the others "don´t tell my wife"!
Thursday, May 20, 2010
20-5-2010 VPLP part 1. Sevilla a Merida....the first 200 ks
Arrived in this beautiful old city with a rich history of Roman, Visigoth, Moorish and Christian links!
It was originally built for retired Roman soldiers! They were well cared for with amazing pieces of the old aqueduct still standing 25 metres high in parts, and once supplying all the water for Merida from the hugh reservoir out of town. The ultimate photo is apparently sunset on the aqueduct arches! However, walking into Merida across the oldest and longest Roman bridge ever built is pretty impressive, especially if you can look down on the reed beds to see nesting egrets etc.....a photographer´s dream for Chris!
.....then there is the Roman Circus and amphitheatre...oh such a wonderful city and one of the many highlights along this wonderful Camino.
While talking about cities, Zafra was beautiful, and a wonderful 2 nights in a converted San Franciscan convent, nurtured by the lovely young girl Monica, who couldn´t have been more helpful. It is an albergue turistico and comes highly recommended for other pilgrims......for what is offered, it is absurdly cheap. Breakfast is given and we had our own double room with ensuite, crisp white sheets and fluffy duvet......wow, after a big day´s walk, utter bliss! Monica led us to a delightful family restaurant nearby, so we highly recommend asking the local for the best places to eat.....it works well for us!
Zafra is home to fabulous medieval arcaded squares, once used for marketplaces and now full of trendy alfresco wine and dine bars! We had a look at the parador as we remembered that Kiwi Hel and Scot had stayed there on their pilgrimage......beautiful surrounds and courtyards, formerly the Alcazar! We had decadent hot choc and jelly beans there each evening and it didnt break the bank and an excellent nightcap!
Now for a little bit about our fellow pilgrims. If there are any would be pilgrims about to set out from Seville, I have posted a little blog on Ivan´s website updating on albergues etc.
It isn´t very crowded on the VDLP yet, but maybe busier as we head north. Some albergues have been 75% full, some only a few pilgrims. There are quite a few bike riders who seem to be in groups of 4 (mainly French and Spanish), but they come and go fast as they cover about 4 of our stages in one day, but nevertheless fill up the albergues at the end of ther day, with noise, sweat and maybe some tears! One who slept opposite us one night had a mobile and a late night phone call with, I kid you not ......a ring tone that repeated HAY TAXI, HAY TAXI (is there a taxi).......we were not impressed, even though quite funny and he did apologise! These bikers are also big RONCADORES (snorers) too! so its a real percussion orc hestra some nights.
Having said all this, we are meeting delightful fellow pilgrims. A very friendly Taiwanese girl, mid 20s who is a bit addicted to the camino and was off to Astorga to volunteer. Then a chatty mid 50s Italian lady, last seen resting under an olive tree in a huge estate of vines with a balding Austrian.
We have got to know a delightful young Finnish lady who speaks beautiful English and we have really connected with her in Merida I commented on her lovely jewellery and she was pleased as she had just found something special in Merida. She is unwell with a heavy coldy flu, and I am resting my sore heel, so we had updates when we bumped into her last night.
Then there is the delightful Irish Jimmy, who loves to chat and is on the Camino just for a couple of weeks. He gave me a big hug in Torremegia as I waited for the bus....my rest day to Merida. He was heading back to Seville to fly home. Oh yes our 75 year old and very fit, pipe smoking Frenchman who has a bottle of vino tinto hanging out of his pack. We haven´t seen him for a few days but he always caught up with us in the mornings and always arrived early in the alburgues, delighting in telling us where to eat, buy food, get the llave (key to albergue) and almost how to choose our bunk and where to hang out clothes!....he was extremely helpful, but I think also enjoyed our company, so we dined with him on occasions.
Early on there was Alan a lovely Spanish guy in his early 20s. Mum from Scotland, and brought up in Malaga, so English excellent. We first saw him with Korean girls in Guillena (first night) and by night 4, he had discovered I was a nurse, so asked me to look at his foot AFTER he had showered, as he was in agony and had been hobbling for days. I told him he had a big plantar wart which needed treatment, so he was pleased to know what is was, but less pleased to know that it wouldn´´t just go away.
We haven´t seen Alan for days, but Chris sighted him briefly in Zafra, which probably meant he was resting up as he tended to walk much longer days than us. This all goes to show that there is a real community on the camino and everyone gets help when they need it!
Even with the locals.....we arrived in Fuente one afternoon and couldn´t find anything open as it was a festival day for San Isidore. Obviously one of the locals saw us wandering around an empty town and drove us to the only eatery open on the edge of town....how we thanked him! And it was a dodgy looking place called El Gato (the cat) so we didn´t even warm to the name for a restaurant, but pilgrim beggars can´t be choosers!!!! it turned out ok and we felt we couldn´t go wrong with limon fanta, vino tinto de verano (summer red chilled with lemonade), and a plate of jamon and one of queso! It was fairly filthy, but a holiday weekend and we were hungry.
I have to tell you the Spanish love their religious festivals that turn into long weekends. We met it first in Monasterio, The Romeria for San Isidore (patron saint of agriculture), and followed us for the next 3 villages, which meant very shut up shop look, including hostals and inns!
We did observe the procession form the iglesia in Monasterio which was fun. Suddenlly we are told there will be a procession at 830 after the mass. It was a chilly evening even though sunstill shining but determined to stay up for it as we had seen horses in all their finery making their way to the town square and women and children beautifully dressed in what I call flamenco outfits (they must have been in the local peluquerias all afternoon too)...aka hairdressers!
The procession begins with very loud rockety fireworks, and San Isidore is carried on a flower filled cart from the church precede by horses, children dressed up in carriages, beautifully dressed men and women. How proud they are of their village and traditions. San Isidore is taken out to the old Hermita on the hill out of town as the story goes, this was one of the resting places when San Isi was being taken from Seville to I think Leon.
Now for a little of the landscape for this first stage of our journey.
Spring flowers have been spectacular and I think we have been quite fortunate with the weather so far, as the red earth would be very sticky and muddy after heavy rain. Poppies have been a stand out, but also marguerites, wild lavender, sage and the beautiful dog rose (I think that is its name).....huge white floppy petals with dark brown and yellow open centres with dots. we`,ve taken lots of photos so flowers will appear on the blog soon!
One of my favourite vistas is rolling hillsides full of holm oaks among lush green meadows......they produce the acorns much loved by the local iberico browny black pigs and the food which produces the 5 star jamon!
The Roman roads between acres of vines are not to be forgotten, and a busy time for the farmers who are out early on their tractors, hoeing and spraying, and then by hand, slashing the tops of the vines with long thin sharp scythes, to keep them trim and I guess to ease the manual harvest later in the year.
Masses of olive groves along country lanes and huge estates so not surprising to be given a plate of olives every time you sit for a drink!
Cows are plentiful, also goats with lots of kids, some sheep and of course lots of pigs as this is their territory. Many animals have bells which is a joyful sound as we walk through these lovely country lanes early in the morning. Sometimes we haven´t seen a soul for hours, which is so peaceful! Then we get a wake up call with barking dogs protecting the boundaries od farms and huge estates.
We have had one water crossing with boots off, and Chris very gallantly took my pack. I crossed in my crocs, which worked well (they are the best camino accessory as they are so light, very good for showering in albergues and v comfy to wear around town...and since I diagnosed Alan´s plantar wart, Chris is now borrowing them for the showers too)!!!!!!
A bit about the Pilgrim Record, which we organized from the Confraternity in London. All the albergues need to see it for proof that you are a pilgrim so can legit stay in the albergues. They also give you a stamp (sello) so that you have it filled by Santiago to qualify for the Compostela! Anyway, the Confraternity should be proud of themselves, as many hospitaleros comment that it is the nicest pilgrim passport that they have seen (I might put a photo of some stamps on the blog to show you). In Seville, we visited a priest at the Cathedral and he gave us our first pilgrim stamp and I showed him a little rosary which cmae from the monks at Rabanal on our last pilgrimage, and also 2 little medallions given to us at the pilgrim mass at Le Puy last time, so he blessed these for us (I am carrying them in bum/belly bag).
Wonderful things that happen on a very windy chilly morning and having to set out early before breakfast.....6 ks later in Calzadilla de los Barros we find a tiny little bar with the kindest, jolliest senora who mad us wonderful hot hot cafe con leche with tostadas y mermeladas! and only because we stopped and asked some ladies who were scurrying to mass across the square, otherwise we probably wouldnñt have found it tucked away behind the iglesia in a little corner.
I think I might have mentioned earlier, we have two guide books with updates (Raju and Bethen Davis and Ben Cole...both good, complementing each other, although lots out of date) .The yellow flecha (arrows) are everywhere and as long as we follow them we are pretty ok, so each day is a arrow treasure hunt (it would be marvellous for a kids birthday party in a small country town!
Haven´t the time to edit so will just publish and ask you to forgive mistakes. so far, buen camino!
Es muy muy bonito!
It was originally built for retired Roman soldiers! They were well cared for with amazing pieces of the old aqueduct still standing 25 metres high in parts, and once supplying all the water for Merida from the hugh reservoir out of town. The ultimate photo is apparently sunset on the aqueduct arches! However, walking into Merida across the oldest and longest Roman bridge ever built is pretty impressive, especially if you can look down on the reed beds to see nesting egrets etc.....a photographer´s dream for Chris!
.....then there is the Roman Circus and amphitheatre...oh such a wonderful city and one of the many highlights along this wonderful Camino.
While talking about cities, Zafra was beautiful, and a wonderful 2 nights in a converted San Franciscan convent, nurtured by the lovely young girl Monica, who couldn´t have been more helpful. It is an albergue turistico and comes highly recommended for other pilgrims......for what is offered, it is absurdly cheap. Breakfast is given and we had our own double room with ensuite, crisp white sheets and fluffy duvet......wow, after a big day´s walk, utter bliss! Monica led us to a delightful family restaurant nearby, so we highly recommend asking the local for the best places to eat.....it works well for us!
Zafra is home to fabulous medieval arcaded squares, once used for marketplaces and now full of trendy alfresco wine and dine bars! We had a look at the parador as we remembered that Kiwi Hel and Scot had stayed there on their pilgrimage......beautiful surrounds and courtyards, formerly the Alcazar! We had decadent hot choc and jelly beans there each evening and it didnt break the bank and an excellent nightcap!
Now for a little bit about our fellow pilgrims. If there are any would be pilgrims about to set out from Seville, I have posted a little blog on Ivan´s website updating on albergues etc.
It isn´t very crowded on the VDLP yet, but maybe busier as we head north. Some albergues have been 75% full, some only a few pilgrims. There are quite a few bike riders who seem to be in groups of 4 (mainly French and Spanish), but they come and go fast as they cover about 4 of our stages in one day, but nevertheless fill up the albergues at the end of ther day, with noise, sweat and maybe some tears! One who slept opposite us one night had a mobile and a late night phone call with, I kid you not ......a ring tone that repeated HAY TAXI, HAY TAXI (is there a taxi).......we were not impressed, even though quite funny and he did apologise! These bikers are also big RONCADORES (snorers) too! so its a real percussion orc hestra some nights.
Having said all this, we are meeting delightful fellow pilgrims. A very friendly Taiwanese girl, mid 20s who is a bit addicted to the camino and was off to Astorga to volunteer. Then a chatty mid 50s Italian lady, last seen resting under an olive tree in a huge estate of vines with a balding Austrian.
We have got to know a delightful young Finnish lady who speaks beautiful English and we have really connected with her in Merida I commented on her lovely jewellery and she was pleased as she had just found something special in Merida. She is unwell with a heavy coldy flu, and I am resting my sore heel, so we had updates when we bumped into her last night.
Then there is the delightful Irish Jimmy, who loves to chat and is on the Camino just for a couple of weeks. He gave me a big hug in Torremegia as I waited for the bus....my rest day to Merida. He was heading back to Seville to fly home. Oh yes our 75 year old and very fit, pipe smoking Frenchman who has a bottle of vino tinto hanging out of his pack. We haven´t seen him for a few days but he always caught up with us in the mornings and always arrived early in the alburgues, delighting in telling us where to eat, buy food, get the llave (key to albergue) and almost how to choose our bunk and where to hang out clothes!....he was extremely helpful, but I think also enjoyed our company, so we dined with him on occasions.
Early on there was Alan a lovely Spanish guy in his early 20s. Mum from Scotland, and brought up in Malaga, so English excellent. We first saw him with Korean girls in Guillena (first night) and by night 4, he had discovered I was a nurse, so asked me to look at his foot AFTER he had showered, as he was in agony and had been hobbling for days. I told him he had a big plantar wart which needed treatment, so he was pleased to know what is was, but less pleased to know that it wouldn´´t just go away.
We haven´t seen Alan for days, but Chris sighted him briefly in Zafra, which probably meant he was resting up as he tended to walk much longer days than us. This all goes to show that there is a real community on the camino and everyone gets help when they need it!
Even with the locals.....we arrived in Fuente one afternoon and couldn´t find anything open as it was a festival day for San Isidore. Obviously one of the locals saw us wandering around an empty town and drove us to the only eatery open on the edge of town....how we thanked him! And it was a dodgy looking place called El Gato (the cat) so we didn´t even warm to the name for a restaurant, but pilgrim beggars can´t be choosers!!!! it turned out ok and we felt we couldn´t go wrong with limon fanta, vino tinto de verano (summer red chilled with lemonade), and a plate of jamon and one of queso! It was fairly filthy, but a holiday weekend and we were hungry.
I have to tell you the Spanish love their religious festivals that turn into long weekends. We met it first in Monasterio, The Romeria for San Isidore (patron saint of agriculture), and followed us for the next 3 villages, which meant very shut up shop look, including hostals and inns!
We did observe the procession form the iglesia in Monasterio which was fun. Suddenlly we are told there will be a procession at 830 after the mass. It was a chilly evening even though sunstill shining but determined to stay up for it as we had seen horses in all their finery making their way to the town square and women and children beautifully dressed in what I call flamenco outfits (they must have been in the local peluquerias all afternoon too)...aka hairdressers!
The procession begins with very loud rockety fireworks, and San Isidore is carried on a flower filled cart from the church precede by horses, children dressed up in carriages, beautifully dressed men and women. How proud they are of their village and traditions. San Isidore is taken out to the old Hermita on the hill out of town as the story goes, this was one of the resting places when San Isi was being taken from Seville to I think Leon.
Now for a little of the landscape for this first stage of our journey.
Spring flowers have been spectacular and I think we have been quite fortunate with the weather so far, as the red earth would be very sticky and muddy after heavy rain. Poppies have been a stand out, but also marguerites, wild lavender, sage and the beautiful dog rose (I think that is its name).....huge white floppy petals with dark brown and yellow open centres with dots. we`,ve taken lots of photos so flowers will appear on the blog soon!
One of my favourite vistas is rolling hillsides full of holm oaks among lush green meadows......they produce the acorns much loved by the local iberico browny black pigs and the food which produces the 5 star jamon!
The Roman roads between acres of vines are not to be forgotten, and a busy time for the farmers who are out early on their tractors, hoeing and spraying, and then by hand, slashing the tops of the vines with long thin sharp scythes, to keep them trim and I guess to ease the manual harvest later in the year.
Masses of olive groves along country lanes and huge estates so not surprising to be given a plate of olives every time you sit for a drink!
Cows are plentiful, also goats with lots of kids, some sheep and of course lots of pigs as this is their territory. Many animals have bells which is a joyful sound as we walk through these lovely country lanes early in the morning. Sometimes we haven´t seen a soul for hours, which is so peaceful! Then we get a wake up call with barking dogs protecting the boundaries od farms and huge estates.
We have had one water crossing with boots off, and Chris very gallantly took my pack. I crossed in my crocs, which worked well (they are the best camino accessory as they are so light, very good for showering in albergues and v comfy to wear around town...and since I diagnosed Alan´s plantar wart, Chris is now borrowing them for the showers too)!!!!!!
A bit about the Pilgrim Record, which we organized from the Confraternity in London. All the albergues need to see it for proof that you are a pilgrim so can legit stay in the albergues. They also give you a stamp (sello) so that you have it filled by Santiago to qualify for the Compostela! Anyway, the Confraternity should be proud of themselves, as many hospitaleros comment that it is the nicest pilgrim passport that they have seen (I might put a photo of some stamps on the blog to show you). In Seville, we visited a priest at the Cathedral and he gave us our first pilgrim stamp and I showed him a little rosary which cmae from the monks at Rabanal on our last pilgrimage, and also 2 little medallions given to us at the pilgrim mass at Le Puy last time, so he blessed these for us (I am carrying them in bum/belly bag).
Wonderful things that happen on a very windy chilly morning and having to set out early before breakfast.....6 ks later in Calzadilla de los Barros we find a tiny little bar with the kindest, jolliest senora who mad us wonderful hot hot cafe con leche with tostadas y mermeladas! and only because we stopped and asked some ladies who were scurrying to mass across the square, otherwise we probably wouldnñt have found it tucked away behind the iglesia in a little corner.
I think I might have mentioned earlier, we have two guide books with updates (Raju and Bethen Davis and Ben Cole...both good, complementing each other, although lots out of date) .The yellow flecha (arrows) are everywhere and as long as we follow them we are pretty ok, so each day is a arrow treasure hunt (it would be marvellous for a kids birthday party in a small country town!
Haven´t the time to edit so will just publish and ask you to forgive mistakes. so far, buen camino!
Es muy muy bonito!
Thursday, May 6, 2010
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