Seville is a beautiful city and there is no doubt it is the capital of Andalusia! Everything is on a much larger scale to Granada and Cordoba, but there remains the charm of narrow cobblestone streets, but the town houses are taller and more grand. The wrought iron balconies are full of colour and orange trees grace the tiny squares, where crowds enjoy a tapas at any time in the sunshine. Most of the cars driving in these tiny streets are luxury class and as we see them skillfully manoeuvre into tiny garage spaces off these tiny alleyways, it is obviously a resident only area (it is amazing there aren´´t more scratches on the paintwork)!
If there is said to be a serious recession here in Spain, it is certainly not affecting the old barrio of Santa Cruz (Jewish and Moorish origin), which is full of very well dressed locals, children in smart tartan uniforms and countless smart pram pushers (bug a boo and Chicco)!!!
Our hotel is also very plush......a divine old town palace formerly owned by a Duke who was a mate of Cervantes. It is a series of several smaller houses and countless courtyards and rooftop gardens and an endless game of hide and seek for us (we almost get lost looking for our room and breakfast in the basement resembling a huge cellar was a challenge to locate)!
Today we visited the Alcazar (former fortress and palace still used by the present King and Queen). The Moorish history and mosaics are once again incredible and the use of water in the gardens continues to delight (Citrus, pomegranate in flower, geraniums, bougainvillea, hibiscus, roses are very common). I just love the rich orange colour of the pomegranate tree, it is so exotic!
The Cathedral and La Giralda Tower were equally impressive and we found a priest after the morning mass who gave us our first pilgrim stamp and blessed us and wished us well for our imminent journey.
The cathedral itself is the largest Gothic cathedral in the world and probably has the most visitors! If you could screen out the noise, there are some worthwhile pieces of art and we were fascinated to see the tomb of Christopher Columbus (whose remains had crossed the globe several times before returning to his homeland).
The tower is accessed by a continuous ramp once used to take two horses abreast to the top! Today it was just hordes of very noisy school children, but the view from the top was pretty impressive and as luck woulf have it, we arrived to see the midday chimes of the huge bells.
The gardens in Pilates house were a highlight and we weren´t surprised to learn that this house was owned by aristocracy (Dukes of Medinaceli) who had access to the water channels (only a privilege of the rich and famous), so gardens with elaborate pools and fountains were a huge status symbol for any family.
We are enjoying tapas bars and found a gem for a late lunch today. It is on the site of a 10th century Roman Bath House and many of the original arches and mosaics remain. It also does excellent food so we may return tonight for more of the same!
Tomorrow is our last day in Seville so we plan to visit the Hospital of Santa Caridad, linked to Miguel Manara (portrayed by Dumas as the regular Don Juan). On the early death of his wife, he entered this Brotherhood and looked after the sick and condemned, which is still the current missionof the convent. Apparently nuns will show you through the orange and sienna courtyards and wonderful paintings in the chapel.
On a more practical note we then need to prepare our back pack for Saturday´s departure along the Camino, and prepare a parcel of guide books etc to send back to London (too heavy to carry on our backs for 8 weeks).
On Saturday we are catching a bus to Italica, where we will start walking after enjoying the Roman remains of the town and the birthplace and former home to Emperor Hadrian. Photos of Seville will be added soon!
Next blog may not be for a week or so.......the next wifi hotspot!
(Our first night on the Camino is likely to be roof and floor in a sports hall.....a far cry from our present hotel in all its luxury)!
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Wouldn't want you to think your followers weren't waiting for the next installment with bated breath. Seville sounds fantastic. Wait to hear how your first few days on the road have gone Lui
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